Welcome to Just One Dish, the Foobooz series chronicling an outstanding menu item at a Philly restaurant — the story behind the dish, how it’s made, and why you should be going out of your way to eat ...

Allow me to confess right at the start — this is not your grandfather's Reuben sandwich. The legendary Reuben of yore was built on corned beef, but I swap that out in favor of smoked salmon. And while ...